Condition matrix

What each grade means

Our scale is deliberately narrow. Nothing below 8.5 enters the archive, because we would rather pass on a piece than sell something we would not wear.

Photograph of What each grade means

3. Condition grading

Every piece is graded between 8.5 and 9.9 on our ten-point matrix, and every deviation is photographed and written into the listing. Patina is not a flaw; damage is.

The Standard
What each grade means
Grade What it means
9.9 — Deadstock Unworn, often with original tags. No storage marks, no odour, no fade.
9.7 — Pristine Worn a handful of times. Indistinguishable from new at arm's length.
9.5 — Excellent Light, even wear. No repairs, no thinning, no stains. Hardware fully functional.
9.2 — Character Honest patina, fade or honeycomb. Structurally perfect, visually lived in.
9.0 — Sound vintage Visible age and documented repairs. Priced accordingly and disclosed in full.
8.8 — Collector Real age, real wear, real rarity. Bought for the history as much as the wear.